I lived in Seoul for six years.
On your question on the general principles of finding good food in Seoul, clusters of restaurants that specialize in the same dish are scattered in neighborhoods around the city. For example, Mugyo-dong in central Gangbuk has a number of restaurants that serve octopus slathered in hot sauce (nakji-bokkum). Shinsa-dong across the river specializes in raw crabs preserved in soy sauce (ganjang gejang). And Shindang-dong has a number of restaurants that serve rice cakes in hot sauce (ddeokbokkee). One cannot go too wrong by traveling to that neighborhood and walking into any restaurant.
As for specific recommendations: Korea has a wide variety of edible flora, the ?namool.? My favorite was Deemeebang in Insadong; it is a bit tucked away but definitely worth it if you are interested in sampling a wide variety of local vegetable dishes. Ordering there is easy?just choose the set menu that fits your appetite and price range.
Korea has plenty of options for marinated beef dishes, but if you enjoy beef for beef?s sake, I suggest Bamboo House in Gangnam. Yes, there are beautiful people there, and yes, they are having a good time, but I?ve yet to find such marbled sirloin like that anywhere else.
In the evenings, be sure to go to a pojangmacha: these are the temporary restaurants that are little more than a truck with a tarpaulin stretched over. There will be one on the street near your hotel. The trucks usually specialize in one or two items, so order what the other patrons are having. Though my first order of silkworms (beondaegee) at a pojangmacha was on a dare, over time it became my favorite item.
The others are right about jagalchi-shijang in Busan?be sure to go. The fish is excellent. In addition to raw fish, the Busan natives like to have a fugu (blowfish) stew that is not spicy (bok-jiri). I thought the stew as a little bland and always asked them to add some pepper flakes.
If you would like to sample some dog, I have a recommendation.
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Source: http://marginalrevolution.com/marginalrevolution/2012/09/seoul-food-bleg.html
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